
LOS BANDOLEROS - ROMANTIC VILLAINS OF ANDALUCÍA.
From their robbers’ dens around Ronda, Bandoleros roamed the
provinces of Málaga and Cádiz until well into the 20th century. Symbolising the poor man’s plight in old Andalucía, they became
romantic figures, whose often tragic stories are entwined with
legend. Following their trail will take you through the Serranía de
Ronda, Ronda town and its fine museum on the Bandoleros.
Bandoleros form part of the Andalusian folklore. Villified and
romanticised in equal measure, these gangs of highwaymen were
murderous cutthroats to some and veritable Robin Hoods to others.
Indeed, a touch of Zorro, Robin Hood and Ali Baba is alive in the
tales of the bandits of the mountains, who emerged from their
thieves’ lairs to hold up coaches and then disappeared as quickly as
they had come.
The poor of Andalucía, caught in a feudal system that kept them
hungry and powerless, glorified these men, not only because some of
them
were reputed to
redistribute the spoils among the less fortunate, but because they,
at least, were offering resistance to the harsh rule of the land-owning
classes. The phenomenon of the Bandoleros reached its
heyday during the 18th and 19th centuries, when southern Spain was
one of the main centres of banditry in Europe. The empty remote
character of so much of Andalucía contributed greatly to the spread
of banditry, which was concentrated largely in the mountainous and
sparsely populated areas of the Sierra Morena, the Alpujarras and
the Serranía de Ronda.
The Bandoleros, who operated in anything from groups of two or
three men to large bands organised like small armies, terrorised the
lonely mountain passes of Andalucía. No nobleman, no matter how well
protected, would venture out to such parts without absolute
necessity, yet for the tourist trade of the time it proved to be the
greatest attraction of all. Today, tourists would run a mile at the
prospect of being held up at gunpoint, but to the young dandies from
northern Europe on their European Tour it all added to a romantic
image of Andalucía that included the proud Spaniards with their
exotic culture, fiery Gypsies and lonely mountain ranges terrorised
by packs of wolves and bandits. What swashbuckling youngster would
not jump at the chance of all that excitement, so when the likes of
Lord Byron, Washington Irving and Prosper Merimée crossed the
murderous tracks of the Serranía de Ronda by coach it was in the
hope of meeting these famous scoundrels. To the people of Andalucía,
however, and the Bandoleros themselves, the matter was much more
serious. Far from regarding themselves as romantic, they were trying
to survive in a society whose blatant social injustice was the
ultimate cause of banditry. Most Bandoleros were not robbers and
thieves by choice, but were often driven into a life of isolation
and crime, on the periphery of society, by some tragic misfortune.
One of the men who most embodied the notion that the Bandolero was
an essentially noble figure driven to desperate measures was José Ulloa Tragabuches, a Ronda bullfighter and pupil of the celebrated
Pedro Romero.
Tragabuches, whose name still resounds in Ronda, had been forced
to abandon a promising career for a life of banditry after killing
his adulterous wife in a passionate rage. The most legendary of Andalucía’s bandits, however, was José María Hinojosa Cobacho, who
came to be known as El Tempranillo, ‘The Early Bird’, because he
joined the ranks of the Bandoleros at such an early age. Born in Jauja, Córdoba, in 1805, El Tempranillo was just 13 years old when
he killed a man during the pilgrimage festivities to the nearby
hermitage of the Fuensanta. Why he did so is not clear, but in view
of his later character the motives given have always been presented
as honourable. At just 13 years old, he escaped to the sierras and
was condemned to a life on the run. Now an outlaw with a price on
his head, he joined a notorious gang called the Siete Niños de
Écija, the ‘Seven Children of Écija’. El Tempranillo was a born
leader and in spite of his youth came to lead a band of some 50 men,
establishing his headquarters in the cave of Los Órganos, from where
he and his ‘troops’ would swoop down to hold up travellers on the
busy highways between Granada, Sevilla, Málaga and Córdoba. Although
he would make his prey pay protection money to ensure a safe
journey, El Tempranillo earned respect for his courteous treatment
of victims and his consideration of the poor. He did not stop at
noblemen and merchants alone, but really rubbed the king’s nose in
it when he held up the Royal Mail Service or coaches taking bullion
to Madrid. In 1828 he declared, “The King rules in Spain, but I rule
in the sierra”.
Four years later the
unthinkable happened, when the king recognised not only El Tempranillo’s influence but also his valour by granting him a royal
pardon and offering him a post as the country’s chief catcher of Bandoleros. It was to prove his undoing, for in 1833 a bandit named
El Barberillo ambushed and shot him in an inn near Alameda. El Tempranillo died of his wounds, aged 28, but his reputation remained
untarnished, and today he is recognised as the greatest of the Bandoleros - a latter-day Robin Hood. His tomb can be seen in the
village cemetery of Alameda, Córdoba, just to the south of Jauja,
while his gun is in the possession of a local family. It stands to
reason that not all Bandoleros were as mild and civilised as El
Tempranillo. Many joined the ranks because of personal tragedies or
because they simply had no other means of existence, but for the
real murderers and rogues it was a godsend. White crosses marking
the sites of roadside murders abounded in the mountainous districts
of Andalucía and indicated that the dangers in travelling here were
not purely figments of a romantic imagination.
Besides robberies and hold-ups, the Bandoleros also became
first-rate smugglers, dealing in tobacco and other types of
contraband imported from Gibraltar or beached along the coasts of Málaga and Cádiz provinces. Things were getting so out of hand that
the authorities established the Guardia Civil to deal with the Bandoleros once and for all. The measure proved successful, and by
the 1870s banditry gradually began to die out in Andalucía, although
smuggling continued well into the 20th century. The man generally
thought to be the last Bandolero was Juan Mingolla Gallardo,
nicknamed Pasos Largos, or ‘Long Steps’. Born near Ronda in 1874, he
lived a solitary life in the mountains after killing a farmer and
his son who had accused him of poaching on their land. Pasos Largos
was finally caught and condemned to life imprisonment in 1932, but
managed to escape and die in a manner more becoming to a Bandolero,
shot in an exchange of fire with the Guardia Civil.
The Bandoleros may be gone but their spirit still hovers over the
mountains around Ronda. To spot the caves where they lived, just
look up from the mountain roads, while two museums, at Ronda and El Gastor, offer a fascinating insight into the lives and stories of
these romantic scoundrels. The Rutas de los Bandoleros offer tours
through their old stomping grounds, on a trajectory where the
provinces of Córdoba, Sevilla and Málaga meet, but if you want to
relive the excitement, there are companies that offer special
itineraries. The Ruta El Tempranillo starts in Jauja and takes in
all the relevant sites. At an undisclosed point on the trip, guests
become the unsuspecting ‘victims’ of ‘Bandoleros’. Such tours
indicate the level of fascination that continues undiminished, but
any real understanding of the Bandoleros should treat them neither
as rogues nor as romantic heroes, but rather as the free-ranging
spirit of the Andalusian people.
The museum consists of four
galleries:
-
Gallery of the Romantic Travellers. Exhibition of
paintings of that time as well as several historical documents, like
birth and death certificates, edicts, royal laws, etc.
-
Gallery "Living the Bandits world". It consists of
dioramas, pictures, weapons, money and coins, official stamps, paintings,
etc.
-
Gallery "The Men and the Names". It is dedicated to
the better known bandoleros (bandits) still remembered and who belong to
the romantic age of the Bandits: Diego Corrientes, José María El
Tempranillo, el Tragabuches ...
-
Gallery "The ones who followed the trace". Special
mention to the Guardia Civil (The Civil Guard was the local police at
the villages), a police spezialized in the fight against bandits. It
shows their clothes, pictures, documents, etc.
